Today, ocean liners dock in Bordeaux and river boats use the city as a base to cruise up and down the Dordogne, Garonne and Gironde offering a relaxed way to discover the vineyards of the region.
The Médoc tradition has always been that the best vines have a view of the water, with the great classified growths spread along the left bank, thanks to the deep gravel laid down here over millions of years by the water.
Along the banks of the Gironde, in the Médoc north of Saint Estpèhe at Saint Yzan du Médoc, where the estuary is 5 kms wide, is the famous pink chateau, Château Loudenne. Built in 1670 on the banks of the estuary, this chartreuse overlooks vines running down to the water and the majestic 19th cellars. These Victorian waterfront cellars are a witness to the unique history of the property, built by the Gilbeys when they purchased the chateau in 1875. They were the first negociants based in the Medoc, rather than in the Port of Bordeaux and their legacy includes the private port of Loudenne.
Current owners, Sophie and Christophe Gouache have brought the port back to life. Their 12 seater boat, ‘Loudenne II’, picks clients up from the waterfront at Pauillac taking them on a shortcruise to the property. It’s a unique way to discover role water plays in the history and the life of the region, discovering fishermen’s cabins and the islands of the estuary.
Wines of the property can be tasted on board or wait until you dock at Loudenne to taste in cellar or the chateau or stay for a picnic in the grounds.
On your bike
This network of rivers offers picturesque cycle routes. The Canal des Deux Mers runs from the north of the Bordeaux region all the way to the Mediterranean coast! Starting in Royan cycle down the right bank of the Gironde estuary, through Blaye and along the gorgeous corniche through the vines of Blaye and Bourg. Take the ‘bac’ across over the Garonne to Lamarque to cycle though Margaux and the Haut Médoc to Bordeaux. From Bordeaux the ‘Roger Lapébie’ cycle path takes you 57 kms along a converted train track, through the beautiful vineyards of Entre deux Mers to Sauveterre La Guyenne.
Last weekend (7 and 8th September) the Rock School Barbey organized the 22nd edition of ‘Ouvre la voix’ a cyclo-musical pop rock festival all along the cycle path. Concerts, food trucks and local wine producers lined the route to celebrate wine music and bicycles all week-end
Keeping it Green
Best Of Wine Tourism winner, La bulle vert keeps adding to its Bordeaux addresses where you can rent and charge electric bikes and your electric car! Now with 47 addresses across France, the vast majority are in Bordeaux from northern Medoc to southern Sauternes and the right bank.
Once in the vineyards you’re spoiled for choice of transport to explore the estates. From electric golf carts at Château Angludet, Range Rovers at Château Branas Grand Poujeaux and Chateau Troplong Mondot and even in a Méhari at Château Lagrange (2022 Best Of Wine Tourism winner) where they have an electric version of this iconic French open car for a tour of the estate including the undulating vines but also the eco-pastured meadows. And of course, the electric Tuk Tuk tour of Saint Emilion and the underground Crémant de Bordeaux cellars the Cloître des Cordeliers(2023 Best Of Wine Tourism winner) in Saint Emilion.
Bordeaux is big, but you can discover the urban vineyards closest to the city by public transport. The tram takes you from the city centre to Château Les Carmes Haut Brion in Pessac Léognan where the ultra-modern cellar designed by Philippe Stark floats like an ocean bound ship. At neighbouring Château Haut Brion the vaulted underground Cave du Château holds tastings of all the wines of the group with over 1000 listings! They recently opened their Cave du Château in down town Bordeaux so you don’t even have to leave the city.
Take the train to the Médoc, disembark at Margaux where you can walk to Château Marquis de Termes (2023 Best Of Wine Tourism winner) for a tasting and delicious lunch at the Au Marquis de Termes. Then, rent one of their bikes to discover their vines and those of the neighbours.
Carry on further north on the same line, then disembark at Pauillac. Walk through town to the Gironde waterfront and visit the spectacular new cellars of Château Grand Puy Ducasse.
In Libourne, Château Fayat has just opened their urban winery to visitors. They have been working with ONG HISA specialized in protecting biodiversity to create and protect their unique natural environment. Creating a beautiful and useful ‘viticultural garden’ to benefit the natural environment and wildlife but also the neighbours and the workers. They are excited to share these innovations and changes with locals and visitors with explanations especially adapted to younger visitors.
Further south, Château de Cérons in the Graves, is just a short walk from the Cérons train station. Once there enjoy their new ‘son et lumière’ projected onto the walls of one of the oldest cellars of the region, an experience that takes you on an emotional water inspired journey from sky, to grape, to bottle. Continue on a journey back in time and through the vines, orchard and ancient limestone quarries returning to the banks of the Garonne. Once again you will be reminded of the intimate and historical relationship of the magnificent waterways of the region and the wines of Bordeaux.
Author : Wendy Narby - Insider Tasting
Photos credits : ©Chateau Loudenne X Wendy Narby / ©Rock School Barbey X Wendy Narby / ©Château Lagrange X Wendy Narby / ©Château Grand Puy Ducasse X Wendy Narby