“I very rarely talk about Penfolds when I’m travelling as an ambassador for South Australia’s wine industry,” he offers, citing Henschke’s Hill of Grace and Grosset Riesling as two other worthy contenders. I nod – both are exceptional wines – yet an argument remains that Grange appears to be in an orbit of its own, with a gravitational pull that transcends any other South Australian wine that may be older, rarer, or more expensive.
While anyone familiar with the Australian wine industry, near or far, will likely know of Grange, the pool of people who have tasted it is much smaller. I’ve had a sip of 1988 Grange for my cousin’s 21st birthday and while this was years before I worked in the wine industry, I still knew of Grange and its importance. It’s a moment I’ll always remember, not for the wine’s taste, but what it represents. Our family are still waiting for the opportune moment to open a 1987 Grange that my father has held onto for years. Gago suggests the sooner the better. I had not even left the property before alerting the family WhatsApp to the good news!
Gago chuckles at these anecdotes, noting that every family seems to have a Grange story. Arguably, they have contributed to Grange becoming iconic – more so than perfect scores. No premium Australian wine collection would be complete without one. The Australian wine industry’s equivalent to a jar of iconic Australian spread, Vegemite.
Gago discusses how through his tenure as Chief Winemaker at Penfolds, a position he has held since 2002, and the global travel that he usually accomplishes in a year, he has met so many fascinating people from all industries and walks of life. Whether Michael Jordan, Dave Grohl or a world leading politician, he has seen them swoon and beam at a bottle of Grange.
“It’s a currency,” he says of Grange’s power to make a statement in any room it is in. “It’s the new language of business.”
For something to hold so much power on a global scale, it must be iconic. Its ability to spark curiosity and pleasure can lead to success critically, commercially and diplomatically. And yet, perhaps its greatest skill, is what it does for the South Australian wine industry and Adelaide, South Australia as a destination.
“It opens doors,” says Gago. “Grange can open the door and keep it open for others to follow.”
This is an abridged version of an article written by Lachlan Aird, 2020 Wine Media Cadet. The Wine Media Cadetship is made possible through the Adelaide, a Great Wine Capital initiative.
Photo: Peter Gago, fourth from left, with Jo Collins, second from right, Chair of Great Wine Capitals Adelaide, South Australia. They are pictured together with Great Wine Capital colleagues from Bordeaux, France, visiting Penfolds in 2018. Photo supplied by the South Australian Department of Primary Industries and Regions.