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Oct 17, 2023

Harvest festivals aren’t only for the pickers

There was a time when properties weren’t keen to open up their doors to visitors during harvest time. There’s a lot going on, pipes and pumps all over the cellar floor, busy cellar rats checking on fermentation temperatures, grapes arriving and general activity. More and more properties now realise just how much wine enthusiasts love this time. They love to the see the cellars in action rather than as hushed dark and cavernous halls of silent barrels of ageing wine or gleaming tanks waiting for the next weeks of activity.

No need to explain, it’s a relief for wine makers when all the grapes are safely in the tanks and fermentation is underway. Even though they can’t take their eye of the ball completely, they are definitely more available than before to share this year’s bounty with visitors and to celebrate the safe completion of another harvest.

 

First edition of the Saint-Emilion Festival Harvest

With this in mind last weekend (14-15th of October), 55 classified growths across the Saint Emilion appellation joined forces for the Fête des Vendanges. Opening up their doors to celebrate the end of the 2023 harvest. This is the first time so many properties have come together to share their passion for their terroir, their history, their culture and their wines.

© Fête des Vendanges, Quoi Faire à Bordeaux

Two full days of tastings and visits

For two full days and evenings, alongside classic tastings and visits, properties opened up their cellars, many not normally open to visitors.  Visits to the Couvent des Jacobins and Château Franc Mayne showed the underground caves carved out of the iconic limestone terroir of the appellation and in the caves of Château Villemaurine a workshop allowed tasters to discover for themselves the impact of the soil and subsoil on the wine.

 

© Couvent des Jacobins Serge Chapuis

Focus on local biodiversity and sustainable practices

Guided vineyard walks above ground placed an emphasis on the local biodiversity and the actions put in place to protect and encourage it.  An agro-forestry walk through the vineyards of Château Cadet-Bon, Château Dassault and Château Petit Faurie de Soutard showed the unique eco ecological initiatives undertaken by each property.

Another walk took outdoor enthusiasts through the beautiful scenery and very different topography of the vineyards of Château Laroze and Château Yon Figeac, with a tasting to see for themselves how these different terroirs influence the wines.

 

© Château Bellefont-Belcier

At Chateau Bellefont-Belcier (2023 Best Of Winner in the “Accommodation” category), the Fondation Terroirs Paysages Culturels showed a documentary “Vignes sur le Fil” explaining the impact of climate changes on the fragile cultural heritage of vineyards. A subject of particular importance for the UNESCO world heritage site of Saint-Émilion.

Tribute to the architectural heritage

The stunning architectural heritage of the region was shared by specialist guide David Souny at the beautiful properties of Chateau Laroque, Chateau de Pressac and at Château Laniote, an exception guided visit showcased the Chapelle de la Trinité.

 

© Château de Pressac

 

In 2008, Chateau Fonroque, was the very first Bordeaux 1er Grand Cru Classé to be certified biodynamic, making it the perfect place to host a workshop explaining this method of  viticulture, how they implement it and what is has brought to the property and the quality of the wines.

The importance of human factor in winemaking

The role of the wine maker was not forgotten. Clos de Sarpe hosted a wine making workshop and Chateau Corbin a blending workshop allowing enthusiasts to try their hand at this unique skill.

 

© Château Haut Breton Larigaudière

And a convivial diner to celebrate the passion

Many châteaux opened up their dining rooms, terraces and cellars for food and wine lunches and tastings. The gastronomic highlight was a traditional Gerbaud or harvest festival dinner. Over 100 guests were welcomed to Château de Ferrand (2023 Regional Best Of Winner in the Art & Culture category in Bordeaux) for an authentic ‘Pot-au-feu’, a slow cooked, seasonal dish served at long communal tables in the beautiful reception hall of the property. The heart-warming food was accompanied by Grands Crus Classé wines from across the Saint-Émilion appellation all served from magnums.

A harvest festival for all the senses.

 

Wendy Narby

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